Restaurant Reviews February-March 2018 Segovia

Segovia

Neighbourhood: Osborne
Address: 484 Stradbrook Ave
Phone: 204-477-6500
Entrées: $3-$25

Segovia Tapas Bar and Restaurant’s ability to thrive since its opening in 2009, is the consistent presentation of Spanish tapas with the complexity of flavour and elegant presentation. Co-owner and Head Chef Adam Donnelly and wife/business partner Carolina Konrad, continue to cultivate a sophisticated menu that switches monthly – keeping guests wondering which favourites will remain, and which new items will tantalize eager tasters in the Stradbrook nook in Osborne Village.

The space is carefully styled with industrial rustic decor, from meat hooks artistically displayed in the coat check, to the glass over exposed brick wall that allows a sneak peak into the warmly lit dining area.

Despite the no reservation policy and record sub-zero temperatures this winter, the dining room meets its capacity of 75 seats only half an hour after opening. If a table is unavailable, selecting a bar seat to overlook the bustling kitchen, is an excellent angle to absorb all sensory expectations. Sauces boil and bubble in small cast iron pans, while lengths of octopus sizzle across the grill.

The masterful Iberico charcuterie is perhaps one of the more sophisticated meat boards in Winnipeg. Four beautifully house-cured meats are laid side-by-side the requisite accoutrements: freshly baked bread, zesty mustard, pickled carrots, and meaty Spanish green olives marinated in oil.

Spanish flavours appear in creative applications. Two bite-sized portions of sliced, seared tuna arrive perfectly textured atop a crispy, mini talo corn tortilla round; dressed in microgreens, and flavoured with a peppery mojo rojo consisting of olive oil, salt, and spice. Charred white cabbage comes doused in a buttery (very buttery) mixture of sherry vinegar, currents, and roasted pine nuts. Wafer thin and peculiarly translucent Iberico lardo (a cured fatty bacon) lays innocently across the cabbage, melting in your mouth with each salty, textured bite.

The kitchen flexes its skill with beets, trending as the new superfood. Rolled in rice flour and perfectly crisped in a deep-fryer, the beets are punched up with a sprinkle of roasted pepita dukkal (pumpkin and sesame seeds), Berbere aioli spiced with chili, garlic, ginger, basil, and fenugreek, to name only a few. Distinct Middle Eastern flavours shine in a dish of tenderly sliced Chermoula Lamb and lentils, with a light marinade of salsa verde hinting garlic, cumin, and turmeric with a generous dollop of tahini.

A salty, sweet chocolate tart is baked on a buckwheat crust, speckled with sea salt and sunflower seeds. Caramel and scoop of Tonka vanilla bean ice cream perfectly rounds out a delicious evening.

Felicitaciones, Segovia! Open Mon, Wed, Thu and Sun 5 pm- 11pm, Fri-Sat 5 pm-12 am and Tue closed.

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