Restaurant Reviews June-July 2018 One Great City Co

One Great City Co.

Neighbourhood: St James
Address: 1596 Ness Ave
Phone: 204-779-2337
Entrées: $6-$22

One Great City Brewing Co’s business partners Jon Burge, Tim Hudek and Josh Berscheid have successfully added more swagger to the burgeoning food culture by combining specialty beers with globally-inflected food. The pairing of an in-house brewery with trendy cuisine is not a new concept, but replacing ordinary pub fare with elevated dishes has proven to be greater than the sum of all its parts in Winnipeg.

The local craft brewery wears “the heart of a city is its people” mantra literally on its sleeve, emblazoned on trendy clothes, gifts and beer accessories on display at the entrance OGC swag bar.

The echo of boisterous chatter beckons a stroll down the long front hall, lined with ethereal photographs of the Northern Lights. Beyond the open kitchen and expansive sleek interior is the warehouse dining room with a contemporary aesthetic.

OGC has hit the mark through an adventurous and accessible approach to beer and food. Those who aren’t fans of salads will be intrigued with plated kale and quinoa that arrive dressed to thrill in a chili basil vinaigrette. Charred carrots offer a smoky change of pace alongside chunks of bacon and cherry tomatoes, dusted with toasted almonds.

Traditional Mexican carnitas get an Asian-centric kick with a trio of delicately shredded glazed pork tacos served on small soft corn tortillas. In three juicy bites, succulent pork and fermented house-made kimchi are complemented with the delicate crunch of sesame seeds in a scallion aioli.

Earthy flavours are delightfully doubled with button mushroom turnovers, cleverly encased in three thin and crispy phyllo triangles. Creamy goat cheese fondue is the dipping base for large sautéed king oyster mushrooms, coupled with steamed broccolini. Enter the leg o’ lamb shank, braised in a house pale ale and laid across creamy polenta, swirled in a rich demi-glace. The side of charred eggplant and confit tomatoes add the final touch, leaving little room for dessert. Dig into piping hot ricotta and brown sugar beignets that melt into house made maple ice cream – the ideal final bites to share with a dinner partner.

One Great City has upped the expectation on what bites a brewery can offer alongside craft beer. OGC is winning the love of Winnipeggers, inspiring a speedy return for delicious variations of cultured flavour – and a flight of happy cheers.

Open Mon-Thu, 11:30 am-12 am, Fri-Sat 11:30 am-1 pm, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm.

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