tre visi café

Savoury Seafood Stew at Tre Visi CaféNeighbourhood: River Heights
Address: 926 Grosvenor Ave
Phone: 204-475-4447
Entrees: $16-$24

After months of anticipation the prayers of Italian food enthusiasts have been answered, Tre Visi Café is now accepting reservations.

Within the past year Chef Giacomo Appice, along with co-owner Chef Heather Neskar, opened this offshoot of his highly lauded Exchange District eatery in River Heights and sold the flagship restaurant. The McDermot locale  will continue to operate under the Tre Visi name while the business transitions to a new concept.

But you won’t taste the talent of Appice or Neskar there, as both have migrated to the corner of Stafford and Grosvenor to churn out a tight menu of consistent modern classics. Hence it’s of little wonder our visits to Tre Visi Café top the list of this summer’s most memorable meals.

Here lies the antidote to beet salad fatigue. It begins with the earthy sweetness of roasted golden beets. This blond beet provides a more mellow foundation for the strong citrus grapefruit and peppery arugula to play. Pine nuts accentuate the common woody note among  the ingredients.

It’s unlikely this sumptuous salad will be around in a few weeks, as the menu is fluid, yet the thoughtful intention of this dish is indicative of this restaurant’s cultivated approach.

Salads may change with the season but housemade breads, pasta and pizza are thankfully perennial. Hand rolled gnocchi has earned a loyal following and duly so. We hungrily tramp across the city for the unparalleled mouthfeel of the homespun morsels, particularly when swimming in pesto cream.

Like the menu, the dining room shies from trends with an understated taupe palette. A stately chandelier is a simple focal point with a whisper of whimsy. At this location, power lunching suits are replaced by ladies  lingering over pinot gris.

Seafood stew delivers a mountain of tender fish, perfect prawns, plump mollusks rising from intoxicating, silky tomato broth.
Exercise caution regarding who you share a generous jar of cinnamon dusted tiramisu with, as this heady blend of booze, cookie and heavy cream elicits instant euphoria.

Tre Visi Cafe is open Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2:30 pm; 5 pm-10 pm.