Restaurant Reviews October-November 2018 Indulge Bistro

Indulge Bistro

Neighbourhood: Linden Ridge
Address: 1765 Kenaston Blvd
Phone: 204-285-4068
Entrées: $17-$34

Stylish hip eateries are generally associated with trendy or up and coming neighbourhoods that we all want to visit. This is a bias food snobs certainly perpetuate, anyway. Sometimes savvy business people turn that thinking on its ear by opening something that zhuzhes up a cement field of big box retail. Such is the case at Indulge. Long-time restaurateur George Tsouras and his daughter Jackie draw on their family’s Greek heritage to present dishes reminiscent of the sunny Mediterranean at this year-old spot that is winning fans city-wide.

The interior splits a specialty food shop, Agora, with restaurant space.  Stylish modern wallpaper, rustic wood accents and plenty of sparkle attract a well-dressed crowd to the dining room, happily sharing cheese and charcuterie.

As trendy as Mediterranean inspired eating has become, Indulge is, by our assessment, Winnipeg’s only eatery that zeros in on signature dishes spanning Spain, Italy and Greece – crossing borders from time to time to put a new spin on what we know. Expect bountiful dishes of seafood, lots of lemony zing and fresh herbs used liberally.

Channeling Spanish tradition, tapas top the menu with plenty from which to build an entire meal.  Citrus peels brighten unctuous olives paired with buttery baguette.  Three crisp arancini, centers oozing with spinach and salty mozzarella, sit atop sweet marinara sauce. Spain’s favourite sausage variety is presented as chorizo lollipops, a trio of not your nonna’s meatballs, panko coated and fried.  Garlicky mayo is a pungent pairing for each spicy bite. An arugula salad arrives with sweet earthy roasted beet and spicy pecans. It’s simple, elegant and hearty.

Seafood is showcased liberally, both Spanish style in paella, and mixed into a sweet tomato sauced linguine. Each brims with oceanic delights like plump mussels and shrimp.  A dish of grilled octopus delivers smoky, charred crunch while also olive oil succulent.  Shrimp are dressed with familiar olive oil and garlic, then kicked up with paprika, pepper flakes and a splash of brandy.

Grilled meats are executed flawlessly. Greek-style fork tender ribs, souvlaki chicken and lamb entrees – and the flamed veggies accompanying them – offer bright rosemary, oregano and lemon notes.

For citrus fanatics, a lemon raspberry torte is among the line-up of sweets in an impressive dessert case furnished by Goodies Bake Shop.  Dessert and the other favourites on the menu can be purchased for late night snack – or a do over at home.

Indulge Bistro is open Mon-Sat 10 am-10 pm and Sun 12 pm – 6 pm.

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