Neighbourhood: St Vital
Address: 620 Niakwa Rd
Phone: (204) 256-7326
Entrees: $7-16
(Editor’s Note – This business is no longer open.)
Luxe, exclusive spaces and impressive dining go hand-in-hand, so it’s little wonder that a city’s culinary gems are often found within its finest country clubs, hotels and resorts. Tapastry by Amici, nestled in Niakwa Country Club, is no exception. Its menu of inventive shareable dishes upholds the excellence the Amici brand is renowned for.
The intimate, 36-seat dining room is tastefully decorated in cool, contemporary shades of grey. Large picture windows overlooking the lush, tree-lined 18th fairway offer a breathtaking shot of colour.
The meat-centric menu is as impressive as the view. Of the 17 dishes on offer 13 bring the brawn, including the hefty bison meatballs, bathed in an earthy wild mushroom sauce. A sweet-sour tomato agro dolce, a flavour that pops up elsewhere on the menu, plays perfectly with the bison’s juices.
Duck confit atop buttery spaetzle slathered in deliciously rich gravy tastes like a high-end poutine. Crispy duck skin yields to gamey morsels of flesh, complementing the satisfying chew of the spaetzle. Smoked butterfish, on its bed of homey white-bean ragout, is another decadent pleasure. The supple fish holds the deep, smoky flavour beautifully.
Bacon-wrapped prawns are no-fail crowd-pleasers, especially when dipped in a tangy combination of agro dolce and zesty lemon garlic aïoli. A stack of soft, lightly salted grilled flat bread ensures these tantalizing sauces don’t go to waste.
Succulent seared jumbo scallops, served alongside a crackling braised pork belly, make for an intoxicating combination. The pièce de résistance is fragrant, verdant scallion sauce that complements both proteins on the plate.
Grilled skirt steak is given yet more flavour by so-called Parmesan ‘cheese whiz,’ a tangy, viscous spread that packs way more zing than its processed namesake.
Finish with a perfect pot of creamy, rich and deeply satisfying crème brûlée, easily among the city’s best.
Tapastry by Amici is open Mon-Fri, 11 am-2 pm, 5 pm-close; Sat & Sun, 5 pm-close.