Restaurant Reviews June-July 2019 The Roost

The Roost

Neighbourhood: Corydon 
Address: 651 Corydon Ave
Phone: 204-414-9313 
Entrées: $11-$18

Among the treetops perches a quaint, whimsical spot where friends gather over glitter dusted glasses and tables adorned with elegant  eats. Everything about the small space feels enchanted and inviting, from cozy nook seating surrounded by birch trees, to a dark granite bar lined with spirit rarities, appearing more like magic potions than bottles of liquor.

Although many may seek out The Roost for co-owner Elsa Taylor’s charming cocktails, Chef Sam Basset’s shareable plates are every bit as thoughtful and delicious.

Fluffy steamed buns are arguably the perfect bar snack, filled with satisfying mouthfuls of juicy pulled pork, thin yet crisp pickles and a hit of spicy mayo. Heated flavours are freshened up with a generous scattering of cilantro that cools every bite.

Nearly every trendy eatery offers its take on tartare, good news for diners always eager to break into a tower of seasoned meat and spread it across buttery toast. Here, the tartare is prepared with venison combined with a roasted green pepper purée and covered in shaved cured yolk, then perfectly complemented by slices of charred sourdough.

Vegetarian risotto presents a unique take on the popular fare. Aromatic dill and parsley lighten up a characteristically heavy dish, and dustings of Parm add sharpness to bright portions of asparagus.

Culinary adventurists are drawn to the curious ‘Ode to Fergus’, which is as beautiful as it is daunting. Bone marrow is soaked for 24 hours in a saltwater brine before being roasted with truffle salt and served with silver spoons. The result is a buttery spread perfect for mingling with the accompanied herb salad (pickled onion, cilantro and capers), and smearing on toast or crackers. Although the name behind the dish is a mystery, one thing is for sure—Fergus definitely has good taste.

The Roost is open Mon-Sat 5 pm-2 am, and Sun 5 pm-12 am.

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